A close-up of the Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel with green dial
Cover A close-up of the Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel with green dial
A close-up of the Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel with green dial

From Armin Strom to H. Moser & Cie., our pick of the most outstanding new watches at Geneva Watch Days last week

Founded in 2020, Geneva Watch Days began as a small gathering of six watch brands, namely Breitling, Bvlgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie., and MB&F. Its creation was a response to the cancellation of major watch fairs due to Covid-19. In the absence of a platform to showcase new products and maintain business momentum, these brands felt a need to organise something on a smaller scale, a cooperative event where participating brands host their own exhibitions and presentations in various locations across Geneva. 

Read more: The most innovative watches at Watches and Wonders 2024

Fast forward to 2024, Geneva Watch Days has become a major event on the calendar, attracting an international community of brands, retailers, media, and enthusiasts who gather to enjoy the lovely summer weather while indulging in all things horology. With a record 52 brands participating this year, Geneva Watch Days remains true to its core values: a collaborative but decentralised approach with brands hosting independent events in different locations across the city. The decentralised format is particularly appealing, which explains why it largely attracts independent brands. 

Here are eight of the best watches unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2024 from August 29 to September 2, 2024. 

 

Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance

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Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance features two counters displaying two different time zones
Above Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance features two counters displaying two different time zones
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance features two counters displaying two different time zones

The extraordinary Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance took a pocket watch idea and transformed it into a useful wristwatch with two sub-dials that make it extremely easy to read the time in two time zones. As the brand explains, “A state of Resonance is generated by housing two movements in a single case so that the balance wheels of both movements will naturally influence and regulate each other in real-time via the mutual sharing of almost imperceptible vibrations.”

Calibre ARF22 is essentially two movements in one. It features two independent, symmetrically oscillators operating in anti-phase to mirror each other. Two mainspring barrels provide energy to two balance wheels with a patented clutch spring transmitting vibrations between them. The clutch spring is proven to be resilient and stable, thus ensuring chronometric precision. Separate gear trains allow for independent time displays, with two crowns on either side of the case for the time to be set separately. 

This year, the Dual Time GMT Resonance is available in a smaller case size of 39mm in 18-karat white gold. The sub-dials are in sky-blue grenage with black azurage chapter rings and applied polished baton indexes. Limited to 25 pieces, it comes with two straps: a matte-gray alligator strap with sky-blue stitching and a light-gray alligator strap with pearl-gray stitching. 

See also: Sincere Haute Horlogerie opens its biggest boutique in Southeast Asia

Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel

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Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel in 18-karat red gold with sunburst green dial
Above Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel in 18-karat red gold with sunburst green dial
Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel in 18-karat red gold with sunburst green dial

A world's first when it premiered in 2013, the Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel features two gravity-correcting mechanisms in a single watch: the tourbillon and the carrousel. Calibre 2322 powers a flying tourbillon at 12 o’clock and a flying carrousel at 6 o’clock, working together to offer superlative timekeeping. The latest iteration, housed in a 44.6mm 18-karat red gold case with a dial in sunburst green, is as luxurious as it is mechanically sophisticated.

Breitling Premier B19 Datora 42 140th Anniversary

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Breitling Premier B19 Datora 42 140th Anniversary
Above Breitling Premier B19 Datora 42 140th Anniversary
Breitling Premier B19 Datora 42 140th Anniversary

Crafted in 18-karat red gold, the Premier B19 Datora 42 echoes the original 1943 model, a gentleman’s chronograph with contrasting minute scale and square pushers. It is endowed with the new Calibre B19, created in celebration of Breitling's 140th anniversary and featuring its first exclusive perpetual calendar movement complete with a moon phase display. The movement is decorated with a solid gold rotor engraved with the Montbrilliant Manufacture in La-Chaux-de-Fonds. The image recalls a period when the manufacture's name appeared regularly on the dials of Bretling's watches in the 1930s and the 1940s. 

De Bethune DB28xs Aérolite

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Photo 1 of 2 De Bethune DB28xs Aérolite
Photo 2 of 2 A closer look at the contrasting lines of the guilloché pattern and the Muonionalusta meteorite of De Bethune DB28xs Aérolite
De Bethune DB28xs Aérolite
De Bethune DB28xs Aérolite

There is beauty in imperfection, as espoused by the Japanese concept of Wabi-Sabi and perfectly illustrated in the De Bethune DB28xs Aérolite. The new release features a dial that combines the random guilloché pattern from the DB28xs Starry Seas and the Muonionalusta meteorite of DB28XP Météorite. Scroll the gallery above for a closer look at the colourful dial with noticeable blemishes, a design “flaw” that only makes it more interesting. Encased in 39mm black zirconium, it is powered by the miniaturised DB2005 calibre.

Read more: Meet Dr Jack Wong, a connoisseur of unconventional timepieces

Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture

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Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture
Above Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture stands out for its malachite dial
Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture

Green dials continue to trend, with Frederique Constant being the latest to join the brigade.  Malachite, a soft stone with conspicuous white streaks, stands out against the white gold case and silver-finished hands and markers. Combining the date and moon phase into a single aperture at 6 o”clock frees up the dial to allow for a fuller appreciation of the malachite's beauty. The FC-716 calibre is fitted with an exclusive barrel that offers up to 72 hours of power reserve.

See also: Bell & Ross introduces another green dial for BR 05

Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey

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Photo 1 of 2 Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey
Photo 2 of 2 Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey decorative caseback
Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey
Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey

Housed in a 43mm pink gold case, the three iconic Golden Bridges of La Esmeralda are now set against a dial of grand feu guilloché in a rich shade of honey gold. Each bridge is exquisitely finished with beveled, mirror-polished surfaces, while two hand-engraved galloping horses are splendid flourishes. Equine motifs can also be found on the caseback cover with three galloping horses inspired by the decorations on historical pocket watches.

Available upon request and limited to 18 pieces, the cover opens to reveal the self-winding tourbillon movement replete with refined finishes. 

Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit by H. Moser & Cie

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Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit by H. Moser & Cie
Above Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit by H. Moser & Cie is enlivened with bright yellow gold and purple
Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit by H. Moser & Cie

H. Moser & Cie. collaborates with another watch brand, Studio Underd0g, on this vibrant timepiece that is as sunny as the season. Reflecting the lively energy of the collaborators, the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit features a striking combination of a purple lacquered sunburst dial and a Maracuja “Grand Feu” enamel dial on an 18-karat yellow gold base with a hammered texture. Despite the pop of colours, it retains the manufacture’s signature minimalism with leaf-shaped hands, a large date counter, and a small hand in green to indicate the month. Limited to 100 pieces. 

Read more: This H. Moser & Cie. watch redefines the perpetual calendar aesthetics 

Ressence Type 3 BB2

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Ressence Type 3 BB2
Above Ressence Type 3 BB2 is sleek in black
Ressence Type 3 BB2

The “BB” in the name refers to “Black Black” is inspired by wet collodion photography, a mid-19th century monochrome technique, complete with matt black DLC-coated titanium case. It features mostly white and light grey inscriptions on the dial, accented by touches of primary colour tones to indicate the weekend and oil temperature. The Ressence Type 3 BB2 has already been awarded ‘Best of the Best’ in the Red Dot Design Award 2024.

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