Watchmaking’s neo-retro revolution shows how referencing the past can seamlessly blend with cutting-edge advancements
For nearly a decade, watch brands have been hitting rewind and reviving iconic designs. Are they running low on fresh ideas and stuck in a creative rut? Not at all. By riding the nostalgia wave, watchmakers are capitalising on earlier triumphs, rejuvenating their collections, and crafting compelling stories that resonate with today’s audience.
Take Tag Heuer, for example. The reintroduction of the Monaco in 2003 and the Carrera in 2004—now key staples for the brand—demonstrates how revisiting classic styles can be highly effective when adapted for contemporary tastes. Case in point: A standout for Tag Heuer this year is a gold version of the Carrera Skipper that first debuted in steel in 1968.
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Similarly, Blancpain revived its legendary Fifty Fathoms diver’s watch in 2003, with the latest iterations being new 42mm automatic versions in red gold or titanium.
Cartier has also excelled in this regard, continuously reimagining tentpole collections like the Panthère, Baignoire, and Santos-Dumont since 2017. The Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph, unveiled at Watches & Wonders this year, is a prime example of the brand’s commitment to reinterpreting its storied designs.
For watchmakers, the real challenge lies in respecting the original design while making necessary improvements. Vacheron Constantin’s 2022 revival of the 222, a 1970s trendsetter, strikes this balance. Piaget achieves the same with its Polo 79, capturing the era’s jet-set style but now featuring a larger 38mm diameter (up from the original 34mm) and a modern self-winding caliber in place of the initial quartz movement.
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