Seoul (Photo: Getty Images)
Cover Seoul (Photo: Getty Images)
Seoul (Photo: Getty Images)

On the occasion of the Frieze Seoul art fair from September 4-7, we ask Soo Choi, founder of Seoul’s P21 gallery, to share her favourite haunts in the city—from the best cultural destinations to restaurants serving the most authentic Korean fare

The third edition of Frieze Seoul returns, this year taking place from September 4 to 7. As the annual fair kicks off, collectors, gallerists and visitors are descending upon South Korea’s capital to discover all its cultural offerings.

We asked Seoul native Soo Choi, who founded the gallery P21, to recommend her favourite places to visit in the city.

P21 is an edgy, young gallery located in Seoul’s Itaewon district. It encourages artists from around the world, and at various stages of their careers, to stage unique, site-specific presentations that transform the gallery space.

From the trendiest bars, dessert that is literally eye candy—and of course, the best art to see—the art veteran has you covered. 

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Tatler Asia
Soo Choi (Photo: courtesy Soo Choi)
Above Soo Choi (Photo: Lee Euiroc)
Soo Choi (Photo: courtesy Soo Choi)

What are you looking forward to most at this year’s Frieze, as well as Seoul Art Week and the Korean International Art Fair (both taking place September 4-8)?

We recently moved [P21 gallery] to a bigger space, and for out-of-town visitors, it will be their first time seeing the new space. We are revealing a new, ambitious project by our artist Keem Jiyoung and are very excited to see the responses. Also, I’m extra excited to welcome Galerie Eva Presenhuber as my neighbour, who will take over my previous space. I’m very honoured to have such a respected gallery join our neighbourhood. 

What are your favourite art spaces and museums to visit? 

Hands down Leeum Samsung Museum. I’m a bit bummed that we don’t get to see its modern and contemporary collections at the moment though. Amorepacific Museum of Art is also a very nice private institution. As for non-profits, Art Sonje and Songeun are respected institutions whose shows I always make sure not to miss.

Who for you is the most significant Korean artist, and where would you go to in Seoul to see their work? 

Nam June Paik [the late artist, considered a pioneer of video art]. As far as I know, Nam June Paik Art Center, in the outskirts of Seoul, is the only place where you can find the display of multiple works by him as a permanent display. 

Tatler Asia
Leeum Museum of Art (Photo: Getty Images)
Above Leeum Museum of Art (Photo: Getty Images)
Leeum Museum of Art (Photo: Getty Images)

What was the last artwork or exhibition you saw in Seoul that wowed you?

Kim Beom [the multimedia artist] at Leeum last year. He’s such a great artist and we don’t get to see enough of him.

What do you think is the most impressive architectural structure or design in Seoul? 

The Seolleung and Jeongneung Royal Tombs are situated inside a beautiful forest park in the middle the bustling city. The walk path is surrounded by pine trees and it is a perfect place to go for a stroll in the morning if you are jet-lagged. Also, vernacular housings in hilly towns and narrow allies, a lot of which are disappearing now. They epitomised the spirit of Seoul until the uniform configuration of apartments doomed the living culture during the development period that began in the 1980s.

For those who had time to visit art institutions in cities outside the capital, where would you recommend?

Heredium in Daejeon [located about two hours by train south of Seoul]—[also] a very nice private institution.

Tatler Asia
North Korean-style cold noodles (Photo: Getty Images)
Above North Korean-style cold noodles (Photo: Getty Images)
North Korean-style cold noodles (Photo: Getty Images)

There is a big drinking culture in Seoul. What’s your favourite bar and what’s your go-to drink?

The true Korean drinking culture comes from drinking at the dinner table, not a bar. It’s either soju or somaek [a cocktail made with soju and beer] over anju, food meant to be eaten with alcohol; this ranges from raw fish to barbecue[d meats] to intestine stew.

What is your go-to place for Korean classics, like Korean barbecue?

There are so many varieties in Korean cuisine beyond the barbecue. I like fresh seafood and fish, especially seasonal ones. The place I rely on, regardless of season, is Hyeonbogjib, which specialises in blowfish. You can get a meal with courses from raw fish salad to hot pot—very healthy, yet hearty.

For lunch, I’d go for authentic North Korean cold noodles at Jinmi Pyeongyang Naengmyeon and to Gangwonjeong for ginseng chicken. 

What’s your favourite cafe in Seoul? What do you like about it? 

I don’t really have time for cafes. But for eye-candy dessert, I’d drop by Nudake occasionally, just to look at their intriguing creations! Haap serves Korean rice cakes and dessert that are also perfect [to buy] as gifts. 

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