In the early 20th century, tennis attire was all about propriety and practicality. Women graced the courts in full-length dresses, corsets, and wide-brimmed hats, while men sported long flannel trousers and dress shirts. The all-white dress code, which would become synonymous with Wimbledon and tradition, emerged during this period. White not only reflected the sun’s heat but also masked unsightly sweat stains, maintaining players’ dignified appearances.

Then in the 1920s, there was a shift towards more practical attire. Suzanne Lenglen, the French tennis star, shocked audiences by wearing a calf-length pleated skirt and short-sleeved top, setting a new standard for women’s tennis fashion.

The 1930s saw a revolution in tennis wear, spearheaded by French tennis champion René Lacoste. In 1933, he founded luxury sports brand Lacoste, popularising the short-sleeved cotton piqué polo shirt adorned with the easily recognisable crocodile logo that’s now synonymous with tennis attire.

This era also saw the rise of the tennis dress—a simple, elegant silhouette that became a staple both on and off the court—and prim and proper tennis skirts. Then in 1949, American tennis darling Gertrude “Gussie” Moran, arguably the first female player to marry the worlds of fashion and tennis, shocked the staid world of the sport. She broke Wimbledon conventions with an above-the-knee skirt that, as soon as she began playing, rose to reveal lace-trimmed knickers underneath!

As societal norms further relaxed, so did tennis attire. The ’50s and ’60s saw hemlines rise and fits become more form-fitting. Women’s tennis skirts shortened considerably, while men embraced shorter shorts. This era also saw subtle hints of colourful accents, logos and accessories, though the predominant colour remained white, with players like Billie Jean King embracing bolder styles.

This decade brought a vibrant revolution to tennis courts. Players like Björn Borg and John McEnroe challenged tradition with their flamboyant styles. Borg’s iconic headband and fitted polo shirts became synonymous with cool, while McEnroe’s rebellious attitude was reflected in his edgy on-court looks and antics. 

Women’s tennis saw the rise of feminine yet functional designs, popularised by Chris Evert’s chic ensembles accentuated with matching accessories. 

The turn of the millennium ushered in an era of high-performance fabrics and cutting-edge design. Moisture-wicking materials, UV protection, and aerodynamic cuts became the norm. Venus and Serena Williams not only dominated the sport but also revolutionised tennis fashion with their bold, personalised outfits that often pushed the boundaries of traditional tennis wear.

Today, tennis fashion is at the forefront of sportswear innovation, a perfect blend of style, performance, and personal branding. Top players collaborate with leading designers to create signature looks that are as much about making a statement as they are about enhancing performance. Fully bespoke kits are de rigueur for the sport’s top athletes and their sponsors, Rafael Nadal and Nike; Roger Federer and Uniqlo; and Leylah Fernandez and Lululemon just to name a few.

From Nike’s innovative court-to-street designs to Stella McCartney’s eco-conscious creations for Adidas, luxury fashion houses have firmly established a presence in tennis wear. This fusion of high fashion and high performance not only elevates the players’ game but also appeals to style-conscious spectators and amateur players alike. As we look to the future, one thing is certain: tennis fashion will continue to evolve, serving up new styles that reflect both the spirit of the game and the zeitgeist of our times.

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